A method for making pizza

Pizza Crust Closeup
Crust on a recent home-made pizza chez Kitcat

I cannot claim that this method for pizza is authentic, handed down from Italians over the generations. I don’t even promise that you’ll like it. But it is what works for me.

It started about five years ago when my wife, observing that I was pretty good at making bread, suggested that I try my hand at pizza. This seemed like a huge culinary leap to me and my first searches for recipes revealed a level of pizza cooking snobbery that was quite off-putting. Could a humble home oven deliver the goods?

I think it can. This method has evolved over the years as I have gleaned more hints and ideas from newspapers, cook books and dozens of food blogs. It has also been informed by pizza tasting across Europe and North America, especially New York, Rome and Venice. The glaring ommissions in my foreign pizza tasting are undoubtedly Naples and Chicago, but I have had to make do.

The only equipment I think essential to this method is a pizza stone. This is a piece of ceramic you bake the pizza on in your oven – it helps deliver a crisp crust and sufficient heat to cook the whole thing through. They are very cheap and my one from Argos has lasted years.

As for the matter of toppings – this is fraught territory. This method will get you as far as a basic Margherita. If you want to do more, then here are some ideas from the list of favoured toppings in my household:

  • Tinned tuna, fresh garlic, red onion and black olives
  • Mushrooms, peppers and onions
  • Marinated anchovies, onions and olives
  • Pepperoni or ham, peppers and mushrooms

I find less is more with pizza toppings, but that’s just my taste.

To make about 15 pizzas you will need:

  • Olive oil
  • 1kg Strong white flour (Type ‘0’ is best)
  • 3 cups of warm water (1 part boiling to 2 parts cold)
  • Yeast
  • 900g Mozzarella cheese
  • 1 x medium onion (very finely diced)
  • 4-5 large cloves of garlic
  • 2 x 680g bottles of Passata (sieved tomato)
  • Oregano (dried)
  • Basil (fresh)

Put the pizza stone on the top shelf of your oven and crank the oven up to maximum temperature. If you can, close all the doors and windows in your kitchen so that it stays warm.

Depending on the type of yeast you have, you may need to activate it. Follow the directions on your yeast to make enough for 1kg of flour. Splash some olive oil into a bowl so that the sides are coated.

In another bowl put in the flour less 2 cups which you can save for later. Add a splash of olive oil, salt and if you have instant yeast add it too, then mix. Now gradually add the warm water whilst stirring with a wooden spoon.

Depending on your flour you may not need all the water, or you may need a smidgeon more so that the mix is one coherent ball that’s not too wet, not too dry and it holds together.

Dust a work top with some of the reserved flour. Knead the dough using the heel of your hands to stretch it. Keep adding flour to the worktop if you find part of the dough still sticky. Give it all a good knead but don’t overdo it – just enough so that it holds together and isn’t sticky any more when you stretch it with your heel.

Form a ball with the dough and place it in the oiled bowl. Roll the dough so it’s completely coated with olive oil. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and leave it in a warm part of the kitchen. It will need 30-45 minutes to rise sufficiently.

Meanwhile you can start making the tomato sauce. In a good sized heavy pot cover the base with olive oil and put in the onion. You want the onion to have been cut very finely so that it almost melts into the oil. Cook on a low heat, stirring occasionally so that the onion softens but doesn brown. When soft add a sprinkle of salt and crushed garlic cloves. Stir and cook for a few more minutes then add the two bottles of passata. Cook on a medium low heat until simmering, stirring occassionally. Taste and add salt as needed, you may also need to sweeten slightly depending on the passata – I like to use about a tablespoon of blackstrap molasses for sweetening. Gently cook the sauce for another five or ten minutes then turn off the heat and cover.

If you still have time you can prepare the toppings you want to use. For mozzarella, if you have bought blocks rather than the balls, slice the blocks in half lengthwise then chop into slices 5mm thick. For mozzarella balls, remove them from the water they are packed in and gently squeeze the excess liquid from them. You can then just tear them up for use on your pizzas.

Once the dough has risen you are ready to start making pizza. Take a small chunk of dough: More than a golf ball but less than a cricket ball in size. Make sure to keep the rest of the dough covered while you are working otherwise it will dry out.

Roll the dough between yours hands until it has formed an even ball shape. Then on a work surface dusted with flour begin to press the dough into a pizza shape. Depending on your energy and patience you can either do it all by hand or use a rolling pin to achieve the desired size and thinness. Be sure to keep dusting the work surface and turning the dough over so it doesn’t stick and is even.

Carefully remove the pizza stone from the oven and lay the rolled dough onto it. The stone will immediately start cooking things so you need to move quickly now!

Use a ladle to place some tomato sauce onto the dough. Use the back of the ladle to spread it across the dough. You want it to be fairly thin right up to about 1cm from the edges – depending on how much crust you like.

Now sprinkle on dried oregano, add chunks of mozzarella, some torn leaves of fresh basil and if desired, your additional toppings. Put the whole lot on the stone back into the oven.

Now is your chance to make up the next piece of dough and have a sip of wine!

Avoid opening the oven to check on things if possible. The key to a good crust is keeping the oven and the pizza stone as hot as you can, so work fast and avoid having the stone out of the oven for long.

The pizza is ready when the edge of the crust is brown and the cheese starts to bubble. You don’t want to leave it too long or the cheese hardens. Remove the pizza stone and, as long as there were no holes in your dough, the pizza should easily slide off onto a serving dish. Enjoy!

Veggie toppings on one of my home-made pizzas

8 thoughts on “A method for making pizza”

  1. I’ve had a stone for about 10 years and occasionally bring it out having forgotten the previous experience where it looks like mission impossible to transfer a floppy, elastic plate shape on to a stone that is, by design, red hot. Also I’ve never understood why the stone came with a chrome tray – is this for carrying the stone to the table?

    1. I didn’t get a chrome tray with my pizza stone, I got a rather handy wire rack with handles so I could carry it without searing myself.

      I don’t find getting the dough onto the stone too bad – I guess it depends on how thin you are going for and how strong the flour is – type ‘0’ flour that has had a good 40 minutes to rise should hold together pretty well with luck!

  2. Here’s my sauce recipe: 1 tin of tomatoes, one quartered onion, 3 or 4 whole cloves of garlic, a good slug of olive oil and maybe add anchovy or fish sauce, tomato puree, herbs and chilli depending on the occasion. Cook for 15 minutes (5 under pressure) and finally blend and season the whole lot.

  3. Don’t normally care too much for politicians, but this recipe is great. Tried it in my Aga and it came out fab. I use a stone that is permanently in the roasting oven so always hot. I also use a bakers shuffle board that i coat with semolina so that the dough does not stick when you shoot the dough onto the stone (does require practise). You can get the board and stones from http://www.lighthousebakery.co.uk

  4. “I learned that pizza napoletana is made from mostly low protein 00 with a touch of higher-protein bread flour mixed in (low protein 00 makes the dough stretchy & extensible; high protein makes it a bit stronger & easier to handle)” – http://bouillie.wordpress.com/2010/03/28/doppio-zero-chasing-pizza-napoletana/

    Maybe I need to use a mixture?

    I notice you don’t attempt the twirling method!
    The shovel looks excellent, but I should persevere with my stone, it can’t be that hard, maybe apply like the Arab/Indian underground ovens!
    Also the courses at http://www.lighthousebakery.co.uk/courses/coursedescriptions/look very tempting!

  5. the courses are very good indeed, and no I am not on commission. Altghough I have made bread for some time, its not always brilliant so I started on the basic course at Lighthouse and the difference is amazing. Going back shortly to do The European and the French course.

  6. Jason,

    Are you able to produce a vegan pizza in order to facilitate the needs of the large vegetarian and vegan community within Brighton and Hove. I challenge you to make a pizza without the use of meat or dairy and to use vegan cheese…….

    1. It’s definitely possible to do well, because I know vBites by Hove lagoon make a mean vegan pizza. From my basic recipe just switch the mozzarella for a non-dairy alternative that melts well. Infinity Foods sell plenty of cheese alternatives which you can use. That will give you a tasty vegan pizza.

      There is debate about whether yeast, as I’ve used in the dough, can be considered vegan. If you don’t want yeast then you need an alternative raising agent for the dough, perhaps baking powder?

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